For decades, automobile manufacturers have installed relatively large rear speakers in their vehicles. The stereotype of a set of 6×9 speakers sitting on the parcel shelf of a Monte Carlo is as “car audio” as it gets. As the industry has evolved, the importance of rear speakers has diminished. Are rear speakers necessary? Do they offer a benefit? Are we just holding on to a bad habit? Read on to explore more about rear speakers.

Why are They So Big?

Automakers used to take advantage of the opportunity to put speakers in the rear of their vehicles because those speakers could be larger that the ones in the front of the vehicle. Consider a third-generation Camaro or Firebird. They had a set of 4×6 speakers on the dash and a set of 6×9 speakers in the rear sides. Likewise, a fourth-generation Monte Carlo had 3-1/2-inch speakers in the dash and 4×10-inch speakers on the skinny little rear deck.

In most cases, a speaker with more cone area will play louder for a given amount of power. Larger speakers are capable of producing more bass. We recently saw a factory audio system with a 9-inch door speaker, and 6x9s in a pickup truck and SUV doors are very common.

What is Our Goal?

The trend in the last decade for both factory and aftermarket car audio systems has been to recreate a live performance as realistically as possible. This shift in design has introduced us to the need for proper speaker placement and the use of larger speakers in the front of the vehicle. The use of digital signal processors to set up crossovers, signal delay and equalization for each speaker location has further improved on our ability to create what is known as a soundstage in our vehicles.

A soundstage refers to a perceived source location for our music. In a perfect world, our music would appear to come from far out in front of us and provide a good sense of width and depth, excellent focus, and realistic ambiance – just like a live performance. Automobile manufacturers have to balance cosmetic design versus optimum speaker placement, and speaker placement often loses the fight.

What is Your Goal?

How do you like to enjoy your music? Do you attend live performances? Do you listen to a two-channel system at home? Do you usually use headphones? Are you into surround sound? Your answers to these questions can help your car audio specialist retailer design a system that will sound the way you want.

If you like live performances and two-channel audio, then it’s most likely that you would enjoy a system with a soundstage that is out on the dash of the vehicle. In this application, rear speakers are not very important, and in most cases, the money saved by not purchasing and installing rear speakers at all will allow you to buy better front speakers.

If you listen to headphones, then you may want the sound from your system to wrap around you evenly. You may enjoy a system that makes you feel as if you are in the middle of the sound. An equal amount of sound will come from in front of you as behind you. In a system like this, using similar or even identical speakers in the front and back can help produce great results.

If you watch a lot of movies in surround sound, then you need to work with your retailer to decide what is right for you. In movies, the side and rear channels are usually reserved for special effects and ambiance. You may want to go without rear speakers in a mobile audio system. Very few sources include surround information, and currently there are no aftermarket surround sound reproduction solutions, although some are coming.

Are You a Purist?

In pure, raw technical terms, you want as few speakers in your system as possible. Additional sources of sound can result in interference patterns called comb filtering. An ideal system would offer full-range left and right signals, and – because we typically can’t use large speakers in our doors – a subwoofer to fill in the bottom few octaves.

The placement of the speakers can have a dramatic effect on the sound of the system. From a perspective of tonal accuracy, having the midrange speakers in the doors works well. This location typically produces a very wide soundstage. A door location does not often result in a soundstage that appears to emanate from far out in front of you. To achieve that, you may need to use a smaller midrange speaker with a tweeter in a dash or A-pillar location.

When possible, try to ensure that tweeters are mounted within 20 degrees of being on-axis to the listening position.

Who’s Back There?

Another consideration for rear speakers is whether you have passengers in the rear of the vehicle. If you have children or friends in the back, then it would serve them well to have speakers to enjoy. Yes, they will be able to hear the dash or front door speakers, but not as clearly as if they had something close by. It would not be unreasonable to design an audio system that allowed you to turn the rear speakers on and off, depending on your needs.

Rear Speakers as Rear Fill

For systems designed with a focus on the front soundstage, rear speakers are often operated at a much lower relative level than the front. Some people call this technique “rear fill.” The intent is to provide a sense of spaciousness to the listening environment. Employing rear fill speakers splits the divide between systems with or without rear speakers. The relative level of these speakers is critical. Too much can start to pull the soundstage rearward.

There is no right or wrong when it comes to a preference for the location of your soundstage. Whatever you enjoy is the right choice. Your local mobile electronics specialist retailer can work with you to design a system that sounds the way you enjoy. Drop in today and ask if they have a demo vehicle that you can audition. That’s a great way to decide what solution is best for you.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

If you are a mobile electronics enthusiast like we are, then it’s quite possible that you enjoy reading product specifications. You can learn a lot about the design and application of a product from the specs. Amplifier power ratings are probably the most popular specs, but there are a lot more. One product specification that tends to confuse people more than help them is speaker efficiency. This article explains what the numbers mean and how you should analyze the appropriateness of subwoofer specifications, one subwoofer to another.

Speaker Efficiency

In a nutshell, the efficiency specification attempts to quantify how much sound a speaker will produce when provided with a given amount of power. Manufacturers provide the specification in two common methods. The most common are decibels of output when fed with 1 watt of power and measured at 1 meter from the speaker, written as 1 W/1 m. The other specification method involves replacing the 1 watt power measurement with 2.83 volts. For a 4 ohm car audio speaker, 2.83 volts works out to 2 watts of power or 4 watts into a 2 ohm speaker. Make sure to take the impedance of the speaker into consideration with the latter format.

For a subwoofer, we derive this efficiency number with a formula that includes the driver’s resonant frequency, equivalent suspension compliance and driver’s electrical Q. In reality, the resulting number is purely theoretical and applies most directly to output in the frequency range above where most subwoofers play. There is the heart of the matter: The efficiency specification doesn’t describe how loud the subwoofer is at low frequencies. The only way to predict and compare performance is to model the behavior of the driver in simulation software.

Frequency Response Simulation

Let’s compare two 10-inch speakers. For sample A, we will use a very high-quality car audio subwoofer. Since we want to make this example somewhat extreme, we will use a 10-inch pro audio woofer as Sample B in our comparison. We will use BassBox Pro 6 to make the comparisons.

Sample A has a calculated efficiency of 93.21 dB when driven with 2.83 V. Sample B has an efficiency of 95.07 dB. Without modeling the low-frequency behavior of the driver, you’d happily think that Sample B was the louder of the two by 1.86 dB.

We modeled each driver in a sealed enclosure with a volume that provides a total system Q (Qtc) of 0.707. The car audio subwoofer is in 0.694 cubic feet, and Sample B is in 0.378 cubic feet net.

As you can see from the graph, the output of the two woofers varies dramatically. Sample A is louder at 40 Hz by an impressive 4.95 dB. That is contradictory to the efficiency specification, isn’t it? It is, however, not wrong.

Subwoofer Specifications

When an engineer designs a speaker, the first thing to decide is the application. Will this be a high-SPL car audio speaker, or a pro-sound speaker? The differences make a great deal of difference.

Our sample subwoofers also have dramatically different excursion capabilities. Sample A has an Xmax of 17.6 mm and Sample B has an Xmax of only 4 mm. It is worth noting and reminding everyone that cone excursion quadruples for every halving of frequency. If these speakers were given enough power to play 100 dB at 80 Hz with an excursion of 1 mm, then they would need to move 4 mm at 40 Hz. At 20 Hz, they would need to move 16 mm. An excursion requirement of 16 mm is no problem for Sample A, but will likely rip Sample B to shreds.

Comparing the output of two drivers requires that we ensure the driver can handle the excursion requirements necessary to meet our needs.

In the case of our subwoofer simulations, due to excursion limits, Sample B can produce a maximum output of only 94.9 dB at 40 Hz. Sample A can produce 108.3 dB at the same frequency. That is a difference of 13.4 dB. This difference is significant. Sample B simply cannot produce 100 dB of output at 40 Hz in this enclosure. Thus, Sample B not a suitable choice for a subwoofer, which makes sense, since it was designed to be a bass guitar speaker.

Choosing the Right Subwoofer

Unless you own speaker-modeling software and know how to use it, it can be tricky to determine the performance of one subwoofer versus another. Even more difficult is attempting to predict how one sounds when compared to another. Frequency response is just one of the many criteria that differentiate one subwoofer from another. Excursion capabilities, enclosure requirements, distortion characteristics and – of course – cost are all factors to be considered.

Many people think that just because it is harder to hear distortion at low frequencies, the design of a subwoofer matters less than that of a midrange speaker. You would be stunned at how a good subwoofer can bring out details in your music that you may have never heard before.

When it is time to go subwoofer shopping, visit your local mobile electronics specialist retailer. Discuss your needs with them and work with them to find a subwoofer solution that fits your application. You will be happy that you did.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

When you head to your local mobile electronics specialist in search of new speakers, there are a few criteria to keep in mind. Choosing a speaker size can go one of two ways: You can pick something that fits a specific mounting location or you can choose based on the characteristics of the speaker relative to its size. Are you interested in knowing why speakers come in different sizes? Good! You’ve come to the right place.

What Does a Speaker Do?

It is the job of a speaker to convert the electrical signal from your amplifier into motion. The motion of the speaker cone excites the air around it. As the cone moves forward, the air in front of the cone is pressurized. As the cone moves rearward, the air is rarefied. These pressure waves extend out from the speaker and our ears detect these minute changes in pressure as sound. Pretty simple, isn’t it?

Things to Consider in Terms of Reproducing Sound

When it comes to reproducing sounds, the lower the frequency, the harder it is to produce the sound. For every doubling of frequency, the speaker cone has to move a quarter the distance to produce the same level of output. As example, if your subwoofer has to move 2 mm to produce 95 dB of output and 40 Hz, it only has to move 0.5 mm to reproduce 95 dB at 80 Hz. To reproduce 95 dB of output at 160 Hz, the cone only has to move 0.125 mm.

The size of a speaker cone affects how much sound the speaker will create for a given amount of input signal. Let’s generalize things a little (because a lot of external factors affect this statement): A 12-inch speaker cone has to move twice as far as a 15-inch speaker cone to produce the same amount of output at a given frequency. That also means the 12-inch speaker requires more power to produce the same sound as the 15-inch.

Bigger is Always Better, Right?

Based on this logic, you should simply select the biggest possible speaker for every application, right? Well, it’s not quite that easy. When we get into midrange and high frequencies, the speaker cone has to move back and forth very fast. A 1,000 Hz tone requires that the speaker move forward and backward 1,000 times a second. A 10 kHz tone requires 10,000 of these same motions per second. If we use a big speaker with a relatively heavy cone, it’s very hard to keep up with the input signal. Why? Inertia.

Let’s use an analogy to help explain this. Imagine that you are at a parade and waving a flag. The pole is 6 feet long and the flag on the end is 3×5-foot. You wave the flag back and forth as fast as you can. Even if you are really strong, the fastest you can wave it back and forth is once, maybe twice a second. Now, look at the little kid standing beside you at the parade. He has a little paper flag that’s 2×3 inches on a 5-inch-long plastic stick. His little hands can wave that flag back and forth five or six times a second.

Speaker engineers have to balance several characteristics to achieve specific goals for a given design. Let’s compare the weight of a speaker cone for a 10-inch subwoofer to that of a 10-inch midrange used in concerts and public address systems. A typical 10-inch sub that is designed to play frequencies below 150 Hz has a cone assembly (cone, voice coil, former, half the spider and half the surround) that weighs around 150 grams. A 10-inch speaker designed to be used for midrange frequencies (150 to 1 kHz) has a cone mass assembly of around 40 grams.

Clearly, the lighter assembly can move faster and keep up with the reproduction of higher frequencies.

Is Lighter Better?

Now we face the conundrum of balancing low- vs. high-frequency output. A lighter cone will move faster and is capable of producing extended high-frequency output. A heavier cone has a lower resonant frequency and thus, can produce more low-frequency output. Combine these generalizations with electrical issues affecting voice coil inductance, and we further hinder high-frequency output. It starts to become clear that we need different-sized speakers for different applications.

Subwoofers

Most subwoofers are sized from 8 to 18 inches. Since subwoofers are designed to play frequencies below 100 Hz in car audio applications, they need a lot of excursion capability and a low resonant frequency. This means subwoofers will have relatively heavy cones. At high excursion levels, cones are exposed to significant stresses, so the cone has to be strong, and this further contributes to their weight. Subwoofers have to handle a lot of power. This power allows us to move the cone over relatively large distances. Power handling requires bigger components in the form of large-diameter voice-coil formers and windings.

Midbass Drivers

A dedicated midbass driver is typically designed to play from around 50 to 500 Hz. Sizes are typically 6.5 to 8 inches in size, but some people have used 10- and 12-inch drivers. The cone has to be heavier than that of a midrange, but not heavy enough to slow it down for higher frequencies.

If you look at the frequency content of a performer, you will see that many voices extend down to 100 Hz. Accuracy in speed is important in this frequency range. Resonances and non-linear behavior causes harmonic distortion. This is often perceived as “warmth” in the midbass region. We do not want anything extra in our music, so accuracy is what matters.

Midrange Speakers

Midrange speakers become a balancing act of several different characteristics. Of course, the cone has to be relatively light, but managing linearity and distortion becomes an even higher priority. It’s easier to hear distortion at midrange frequencies. The cone has to balance mass, damping and strength to prevent deforming and cause harmonics. The suspension has to be very linear.

Managing inductance also becomes a more significant issue because it can reduce high frequency output. Midrange drivers for typical car audio applications vary in size from 6.5 inches and 6×9 inches on the large side down to as small as 2.5 inches. Many midrange drivers try to do double-duty as midbass drivers for use in two- or three-way audio systems. While this is a minor compromise, it is a necessity. We consider midrange speakers to cover the range from 100 Hz to 3,000 or 4,000 Hz.

Tweeters

To reproduce frequencies above 2.5 kHz, tweeters need very light cones. Tweeter cones don’t move very far, so they don’t require much excursion, but there still has to be a suspension. Resonances in the cone can wreak havoc with frequency response. Premium tweeters may make use of features like ferrofluid in the gap to improve power handling. Premium tweeters may also include a copper pole-piece cap to reduce inductance and distortion.

Directivity Considerations

Another consideration when choosing speakers is that all speakers above a certain frequency start to become directional. Directivity refers to a reduction in high-frequency output as you move off-axis to the speaker. If you choose your speakers and design your system carefully, you can minimize the effect of directivity. The only real consideration would be to have your tweeters pointed at you.

The Balancing Act

The applications for the information in this article vary, depending on your overall goal for your audio system upgrade. A simple set of coaxial replacement speakers will be chosen by the size application. If you are building a high-end audio system with multiple amplifiers, channels, digital signal processing and custom speaker mounting locations, then choosing the right speakers in terms of their quality and intended application becomes more important.

Learn More about Speakers and Their Different Sizes at Your Local Retailer

Your local mobile electronics specialist retailer can help you choose the right speakers for your application and performance goals. Drop in at a local shop today and have a listen to their demo board or demo vehicle. It’s an amazing experience!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

When an audio enthusiast goes shopping for an amplifier, the question of “how much power do I need?” comes up almost every time. There are a few factors to take into consideration when answering this question. This article looks at those factors and provides some technical background to help support your decision.

Why Do We Need Power?

Quite simply, when you send more power to a speaker, it moves farther and produces more output. Two limiting factors within the speaker itself control how much power it can handle. At higher frequencies, the limit is heat. Speakers are notoriously inefficient. The best convert about 2% of the energy sent to them into sound and the rest is converted to heat. When you send 60 watts of power to a speaker, most of that energy heats up the voice coil and the components around it. Eventually, those components will reach a temperature where they will fail. The speaker will usually stop working at this point, or shortly after.

The second limiting factor is how far the speaker can move. Inexpensive midrange speakers may be able to move back and forth about half an inch without creating massive distortion. Higher-end speakers have as much as twice as much cone excursion capability. (Speakers don’t sound the same at high volumes as they do at low. Audition your speakers at the volume you will be using them.)

Power vs. Output

Power works like this: When you double the power going to a speaker, the output increases by 3 dB. That is not a large amount. In fact, it is the smallest change in amplitude that is perceivable across the audible frequency range. (1 dB is the smallest perceivable change in amplitude where our hearing is most sensitive – 1 to 2 kHz).

Perceived volume is a different beast. An increase of 10 times the power sent to a speaker produces a doubling of perceived volume.

Speaker Efficiency

Another consideration in choosing an amplifier is the efficiency of your speakers. An inexpensive conventional midrange speaker may produce an average output of 91 dB when measured 1 meter away from the speaker cone and when driven with 1 watt of power. A high-quality speaker will likely be less efficient, but capable of playing over a wide range of frequencies. A measurement of 85 dB efficiency at the same distance and power level is not uncommon.

How Loud Do We Need it?

A typical RMS sound pressure level for an orchestra, when you’re seated three or four rows back from the musicians, is around 100 dB. If we use our analogy of the 85 dB efficient speaker, we need 31.6 watts to get that speaker to play 100 dB. The problem is that this is the average power, not the peak power. Perhaps the performance crests at 110 dB? In that case, we need a peak power level of 316 watts. Just keep in mind that the speaker components are likely to melt if you keep this effort up for any significant amount of time.

We don’t suggest buying any speaker based on its efficiency. Criteria like linearity, lack of distortion, application limitations and frequency range are far more important. If you need it loud, buy more speakers, or larger speakers.

Distortion Happens

What happens if we run out of power in an amplifier? We get distortion. This distortion creates all sorts of high-frequency harmonic content. That increased high-frequency energy is what causes tweeters to fail. We need to choose an amplifier that will allow our speakers to play loudly enough without running out of power.

You are better off buying a 100 watt per channel amplifier and only using 50 watts than you are buying a 50 watt amplifier and occasionally causing it to distort. Remember, those 50 extra watts only result in an increase in output of 3 dB – assuming the speaker can handle it.

It Takes Power to Make Power

A consideration that many people overlook is the ability to supply an amplifier with the power it needs to produce the power you want. Modern vehicles have electrical systems with reduced power production capabilities. Smaller alternators, smaller batteries and smaller wiring save weight. Reduced weight transforms into better fuel economy for the vehicle.

As a general rule of thumb for power consumption calculations, you can assume that every 100 watts of power from an amplifier will require about 10 amps of current from your electrical system. Yes, some amplifiers are more efficient than others, but this serves as a good, quick guideline.

If you want to purchase a 650 watt amplifier to power your subwoofer, then your electrical system (battery and alternator) has to be able to provide it with about 65 amps of current. This power requirement is on top of what is required to run the vehicle. The computers, lights, ignition system, radio and heater all consume power as well. On a modern compact car, it would be no surprise if you only had 30 to 40 amps of power left over for an amplifier.

You can get away with a big amplifier – but you can’t play it indefinitely, even with the vehicle running. Once you have exceeded the power delivery capabilities of the amplifier, the battery will start to supply current. You can kill a car battery, even with the vehicle running. Once you shut the car off, you may not have enough energy in the battery to restart it.

Blowing up Amplifiers

Amplifiers do not like to be starved for power. When you run out of power to drive your amplifier, in most cases, the amplifier rail voltage starts to drop. Power starvation causes the maximum undistorted power production of the amplifier to decrease. We are back to the same scenario: Distortion causes harmonics, and harmonics can damage fragile speakers.

If you have had an amplifier fail, and the failure was because the power supply section of the amp self-destructed, chances are you were not able to feed the amp properly.

How Much Amplifier Power Do You Need?

The solution: Buy as much as power as you can afford. Buy the biggest that will physically fit in your application. Get the highest-performance amplifier you can. Make sure your installer uses properly sized wiring to install the amplifier. Upgrade your car battery to a high-performance, high-capacity unit if you need more reserve power.

For more information, visit your local mobile electronics specialist retailer. Be honest about your needs and expectations for your audio system. They will be able to suggest a solution that sounds fantastic and will offer years of reliable performance.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.